As you initially pull the rope the gear raises being camed up by the roll pin. Remote Controls : According to this parts website, apparently remote controls were made, but it would seem that the twist hand throttle would need to be disconnected, so you would have just the remote. The mark on throttle cam must be directly behind rounded starboard edge of cam follower just as throttle begins to open. Then get the screw started as straight as possible. Since this material is possibly rather thin, only go part way in with the tap, try your Ell and adjust the tap depth if needed. The driveshaft is basically held in place by the impeller drive key when everything is bolted together. Those of you who frequent garage sales may be on the lookout for these.
It is all accomplished by taking advantage of the different pressures in the crankcase. I usually lubricate the vanes with a slight amount of oil or Vaseline. Occasionally you will find the starter rope frayed. The thermostat cover is at the top rear of the head. Most all of these smaller motors have a water jacket cover on one side of the motor, if so pull it off and again clean any passages. This article is directed at the 1974-1976 9. Normally you would have to pay some scum on ebay or somewhere for this, but we could care less.
Timing Plate : If you have to remove this timing plate, there are 4 screws that need to be removed from the top that attach the timing plate to the timing plate base. In addition, 1965 - back did not have a rubber hub, but a shock absorber in the gearcase, 1966-up had the rubber shock hub in the prop. To replace the starter unit to the powerhead, 1 Place the bushing in the spring retainer plate. About the only way to tighten is to use a center punch then randomly punch into the bronze, upsetting it enough to tighten things. There is no mechanical pump like what you would find in a four-stroke motor.
In looking at the factory service manual for this model they recommend lubricating this mating surface between this lever and cam. Install the front retainer plate screw and tighten the rear screw. The pullers usually have 3 slots milled in the top flange to accommodate the bolts to be threaded into corresponding threaded holes in the top of the flywheel. This was for the older method of mechanical steering drum and cable where the double eared spring connector of the steering cable could be mounted in a quick disconnect system. Shift Lever Stops : The positive click stops for the shifting lever is by a Ell shaped bent spring that snaps into notches on the shifting rod inside the lower unit. This plug is in the same location that the early carburetors had a adjustable main needle jet.
While you have it out of the pull handle hole in the lower front cowling, take a look for any wear. You can ream it by drilling, or just using a round powersaw file to clean it up. It may be prudent to slightly spread the slit in the coupler to allow the coupler to more readily slide over the shifting rod which helps to easily located into proper alignment. In the illustration below is the dimensions for it if you need to fashion one. This way you can refill a partly full tank with the known amount of oil.
The formula shown below will be on all modern 2 cycle oil sold in the last 30 years or so. The only other thing to do would be was to use a center punch and make many punch marks internally around on the inside of this bronze bushing trying to tighten it to the power-head boss. Being retired and on a fixed income also could have also been somewhat of a determining factor. In 1968 there was a change during the year and series numbers can mean part changes. Water pumps are basically the same design as still used on all outboard motors. Flush kits for this motor are rather scarce.
In reality that handle is not really needed as you can hold the flywheel itself. Problems : On the motor I was working on, after trying to start it, then checking spark or non spark for one cylinder , then when I got this motor together enough to run, it had more problems, which appeared to be timing and carburetion issues. Be sure it is free of gunk. Is there any validity to that? The casting boss was there, being cast into the base. If so it will usually be on the top of the hole and will be pear shaped with the narrower part where the rope has worn. The only other thing to do to tighten this.
If it is so tight that you can not loosen it normally, then try to tap the wrench with a medium hammer to jar the nut loose initially. The parts listing does not show the 3 blade prop. Sometimes all you are doing is to just remove oxidation off the contacts if the motor has sat for some time. Number 3 is the actual O-Ring seal, with the pin pushing the 4 retainer cup and spring forcing the seal up to bear against the 2 plate. And it appears that no thermostat was used on this one. The pin 8 drives against the bumps, turning the washer.
Then insert a section of brown paper shopping bag in the points, rotate the crankshaft until the points close then pull this paper thru the points. Rather odd arrangement, as of yet I have not removed the powerhead to get a up close and personal look. The important thing here is to get the bends just right so that the timing is consistent when the timing plate moves this roller forward to give movement in the throttle valve increasing fuel flow. There is really no provision currently available for a easy muff system to run this motor out of a tank. In this plate are 4 small clamshell type scoops that is designed to put water into the water pump when the motor is in reverse, as shown in the photo on the left below. Or a fuel pump diaphragm. Some even shared the same sized pistons, while others may have had a larger piston while sharing many other common parts but a different carburetor.