Rewind the rope and reassemble as described above. In the photos below, the early 9. Carefully remove the starter assembly while holding it together. However if you are purchasing the one with the tachometer, you have to purchase models that match either the 2 cycle or the 4 stroke engines as the tach is not interchangeable here. And here is the for the Evinrudes. Evinrude in those years used a different 5 digit model code, as 10424 S.
These can be used on either a rope or electric start motor whereas a standard tachometer needs a battery or electric start. Remember that these 2 cycle motors were sold up to 6 years or so later after production ceased. Coming from the rectifier is a red wire that again goes to the terminal block. The other sheathed cable will have 3 yellow wires leading the the terminal block. That's why they use heavy wires! However some of these foreign motors could have model numbers harder to decipher.
It makes sense when shutting down these motors using a single carburetor for what may well be a extended period of time, to disconnect the fuel line and run the motor unit it dies, using up all the fuel in the carburetor. Occasionally you may encounter a rope starter where the pinion gear teeth may be chewed off a bit where they engage the flywheel gear teeth. Carburetor, Air Breather : No, these boxes mounted on the carburetor's intake are called a silencer. If I do replace them every 2-3 years, depending on how much I run the motors I save the old plugs for spares, sandblast them so they are a usable spare set on the boat but vacuum pack them to keep corrosion off. Some links to online information will have the link in an underlined blue color.
I have heard from more than one person that their plug had numbers that do not match any of the codes, so this kind of backs up the idea of a change after the 1979 date, as the factory changed things as time went on. Did you ever get a manual for that motor? If it gets hot enough that you can smell burning paint, shut it off as the motor is too hot. Electric Start Motors : The electric start motor mounting bolts come in from the outside and are bolted directly into the block, instead of the bolts coming in from the top into the sideplate cover. The rope or knob does not need to be removed, as the unit can be pulled out slightly and laid in a location out of the way. Finally, re-connect the Positive battery connector when you are finished. For those of you readers outside of the United States, here is another that may better help with your motors. This is a rubber ring bonded to a stainless steel base that when pressed into the head is so tight that if you get a stat kit with the seal, many times you can peel the rubber off the base and not even know that the base is still there.
If you back it out more, the coiled spring may pop out of its housing when you place the unit in position. Usually you can use an air hose to blow thru the passages to be sure they are clear. The part number for the the pre 1987 9. In use, this electrical circuit is just reversed from what most of us think, as with the clip inserted, turning the switch on, you are actually breaking any electrical connection. Carburetor : The carburetor shown below looks externally very much like the pre 93's but internally the pickup tube and main-jet are simplified. These 4 stroke motors had the powerheads made by Suzuki, but used basically the same lower unit as the existing Johnson's.
The early units as shown in the photo below on the left used the square exhaust pipe. I think if you measure the head carefully you will note it's lower compression. Manual includes hi-resolution images and color diagrams. Note the difference in the cooling holes on the cover gasket between a 7 bolt, and 8 bolt thermostat cover. This situation may well contribute to a poorly performing motor, becoming hot in one side of the block and restricting flow to the rest.
But if it is set it for 600 in forward and then reverse will drag it down to around 500 which is to slow to run. This wire usually goes to the kill button on some versions of electronics. You will also notice the lower right bolt hole, which is the one you can not get to without the powerhead removed. If possible, also include the part number that's on your old part. These buttons for both type 3 and 4 also incorporated a man overboard kill switch. I usually have the motor on a stand or allowing it to set on the skeg on a floor, wrap my arm around the flywheel, lift up as much as I can and sharply rap the nut.
It locks the motor down so that if you put it in reverse and try to attain a high speed, that the lower unit will not jump up and out of the water. Hard Starting : These motors can be hard to start unless the choke is staying fully closed while starting. The Type 2 thru Type 4 made from late 1986 to 1992 use a cable system for the throttle advance as shown below instead of the old troublesome gears system. . This starting system has been modified from the old pre 93s in that the starter switch is just a contact button, energizing a heavy duty relay to the actual starter.