At the time of this writing, no aftermarket barrels are in mass prodiuction. This aligns the opening for the rear frame screw to lock the lower receiver plug in place. Some of the nickel plating has worn off where the sear contacts the hammer on Dawn's Viper. You just bolt it on. The accuracy difference between these barrels and the stock barrel is noticable. It differs in where the friction lies. That is using the original foamy style bolt both with and without a foamy installed.
This is not a problem in 1997 and later production runs, so you can easily switch it to the off position, preventing balls from pouring out the receiver when the barrel is off. The trigger springs are lightened, and the sear is adjusted for a shorter and lighter trigger pull. The original Viper we tested and still use continues to operate trouble free. If I were to go shopping for an expansion chamber, I'd want one that had heat sink fins on it, to maximize the area in contact with the air. Both the Automag and Indian Creek ball stoppers also work in the power feed. Remove the bottom receiver plug, and with it will come the hammer spring, and the hammer spring guide. Looking through the hole in the top of the sight rail, you can line up the link pin with the hole.
When you put the link pin back in later, you will need to be careful to align it properly in the hammer. It will be readily apparent whether or not the link pin is properly aligned. The expansion chamber is actually a part of the receiver, so it gets to use the entire receiver of the paintgun to exchange heat. Thus the Viper-M1 was born. The surest sign that you have a pre 1997 Viper M1 is that the velocity adjusting screw is on the right hand side. On the Viper-M1, there are no o-rings to cause drag when the barrel is sliding in and out.
There is a hex screw on the side of the receiver that is adjusted with an allen wrench included in the parts kit. There are no springs to swap, no parts that need to be removed, then replaced after the adjustment, and the adjustment can be made while the marker is still connected to its gas supply. Under the heads of the screws on pre 1997 models are thin rubber friction washers that keep the screws from slipping loose. You shouldn't have any problem with light machine oils like 3 in 1, but using a paintgun oil you know you will have something that won't break down, or gum up under the temperatures involved. At the time we received our. Basically it's like a trigger job in a box. Mixing and matching new components on some of these 1995 and 1996 production models can cause physical damage to the parts and or the receiver.
Once it is removed, it becomes a tool to take out the link pin. They are also marketing sports products for these various activities. I agree It may not be ultra fast or light but for how much I play and how I play this thing is killer. On 1997 and later models, an o-ring in a groove in the screw provides locking friction. It, along with my Minimag the only marker I have used that has never failed to operate. In my experience this is not really necessary.
This document may not be distributed without direct written permission from its author. I find it is easier to remove the bolt from the front, and replace it through the back, due to changing diameters in the upper receiver. One o-ring is compressed between a lip on the barrel, and the front of the receiver. This simple step while it seems pretty silly reduces production costs and errors because the receiver does not have to be flipped over on the mill. . It isn't just a double finger trigger.
You may notice some wear on the bottom of the hammer. As such, Corinthian Media Services makes no claims to the trustworthiness, or reliability of said information. The link pin connects the bolt in the upper receiver to the hammer in the lower receiver. Feel free to print and store this document for your own personal use. The bolt will now slide easily out of the upper receiver if you tilt the receiver forward.
Also, when you have put the lower receiver plug back in, make sure to align the mark on its back vertically. Having the balls drop directly into the barrel eliminated a seam and dramatically reduced ball breakage. To my knowledge no other manufacturer has produced aftermarket barrels for the Viper M1. The concept is similar to the release on an Automag, only different. I have used the foamy style bolt without the foamy and experienced no problems. I just custom built the stock in the pictures for it becuase the add-ons for this thing are impossible to find and extremely expensive as well.